Open it with friends. Finish it before anyone leaves.

In 1950s France, local winemakers filled liter bottles with colorful labels that you'd bring back to get refilled. Herve Villemade is a Loire farmer who's been doing things the honest way since 2000. Bovin is his version of that tradition -- old-vine Gamay from the Cher Valley, made simply, bottled in a liter because that's the right size for a table of people who are actually enjoying themselves.

This is the campfire bottle. The backyard hang bottle. The one you pull out of the cooler two hours into a Sunday and everyone's relieved it's still there. Light, fresh, easy -- and interesting enough that people will ask where you got it.

Serve slightly chilled. One liter, good company, done.